Best Reciprocating Saw Blades: Top Picks for Wood, Metal & Universal Use

Hey there! If you are reading this, chances are you’ve got a reciprocating saw (maybe a Sawzall) sitting in your garage or truck, and you’re tired of burning through blades. We’ve all been there. You grab whatever blade is handy, try to cut through a steel pipe, and ten seconds later, the teeth are stripped, and the blade is smoking.

It doesn’t have to be that way. Choosing the right reciprocating saw blade is the secret weapon for any contractor or DIY enthusiast. It saves you time, saves you money, and honestly, it makes the work feel a whole lot less like work.

In this guide, we are going to break down everything you need to know—from material types to tooth counts—and share some pro tips that most manuals leave out. Let’s get your saw singing!

Why Blade Material is Your First Big Decision

Think of the blade material as the DNA of your tool. It decides what you can cut and how long the blade will last. You typically have three main choices, and picking the wrong one is the #1 reason for blade failure.

High Carbon Steel (HCS) is your basic, budget-friendly option. It’s flexible, which is great, but it’s soft. Use this for softer woods, plastics, or pruning branches. But be warned: if you hit a nail or try to cut metal, this blade is toast instantly.

Bi-Metal (BiM) is the industry workhorse. This is what you want in your bag 90% of the time. These blades fuse two metals: a flexible steel back (so it doesn’t snap) and a super-hard High-Speed Steel (HSS) edge for the teeth. Bi-metal blades are perfect for wood with nails, metal pipes, and mixed demolition. They last about 10 times longer than standard carbon steel.

Carbide-Tipped is the heavyweight champion. These teeth are tipped with a ceramic-like material that is incredibly hard. If you are cutting cast iron, stainless steel, or thick high-strength alloys, you need carbide. They cost more upfront, but they outlast bi-metal blades by a landslide in tough applications.

Diamond-Grit blades don't even have teeth! They use industrial diamonds to grind through material. Grab these for masonry, glass, ceramic tile, or fiber cement.

Cracking the Code: Teeth Per Inch (TPI)

Next up is TPI. This number is usually printed right on the blade, and it tells you how aggressive or smooth the cut will be.

Low TPI (3 to 8) means big, scary-looking teeth with deep gullets between them. These are designed to rip through material fast. Use low TPI for demolition, framing lumber, and pruning trees. The deep gullets clear out the sawdust so the blade doesn’t bind.

Medium TPI (8 to 14) is your middle ground. These give you a decent finish but still cut relatively quickly. This range is ideal for cutting wood with nails (nail-embedded wood) or plastics.

High TPI (14 to 24) looks almost like a wavy line. These tiny teeth are built for metal. Use high TPI for sheet metal, steel pipes, and EMT conduit. The high tooth count ensures the blade shaves the metal rather than snagging on it.

Pro Tip: When cutting metal, the "Rule of Three" applies. You always want at least three teeth touching the material at any time. If you use a coarse blade on thin sheet metal, the metal will get caught between the teeth and rip the teeth right off!

Best Blades for Wood: Speed vs. Durability

When you are framing or doing demo work, speed is king. You want a blade that eats wood for breakfast.

For clean wood, look for a 6 TPI blade. It will tear through 2x4s rapidly. But let's be real—renovation is rarely "clean." You are going to hit nails.

For nail-embedded wood, you need a blade that balances speed with toughness. Look for Bi-Metal or Carbide-tipped blades with 6-10 TPI. Brands like the Johnson Tools Multi-Purpose Demolition Set are engineered exactly for this. They can slam into a hardened nail, cut right through it, and keep going into the wood without missing a beat.

Mastering Metal: Heat is the Enemy

Cutting metal is where most people struggle. The friction generates intense heat, which can destroy the temper of your blade in seconds.

First, choose a Bi-Metal blade with 14-24 TPI. The Johnson Tools 180mm 18TPI Metal Reciprocating Saw Blade is a solid choice here. It’s designed to withstand the heat and abrasion of cutting steel pipes and profiles.

Second, slow down! High speed creates high heat. Feather the trigger to keep your Strokes Per Minute (SPM) lower.

Third, use lubrication. A little cutting oil (or even wax) on the blade keeps temperatures down and extends blade life significantly.

Pro Tip: If you are cutting thick metal like cast iron, don't waste your time with standard bi-metal. Go straight for a Carbide-Tipped blade. It’s the difference between a 1-minute cut and a 20-minute struggle.

The "One Blade to Rule Them All": Universal Blades

Let’s be honest, sometimes you just don’t want to change the blade every five minutes. You’re cutting a wood stud, then a PVC pipe, then a copper line.

For this, you want a Universal / Multi-Purpose Blade. These usually feature Bi-Metal construction and often use a Variable TPI design (like 10/14 TPI). The variable teeth allow the blade to act like a coarse blade in wood and a fine blade in metal.

The (https://www.johnsontoolscn.com/) Reciprocating Saw Blades Universal series is a fantastic option here. Their blades fit all major saw brands (DeWalt, Milwaukee, Bosch, etc.) thanks to the universal shank. Keeping a pack of these in your truck means you are ready for 90% of the surprises a job site throws at you.

30% Extra Insight: Pro Techniques You Need to Know

Most guides stop at "pick the right blade." But we want you to use that blade like a pro. Here are the tips that separate the rookies from the experts.

1. Extend Blade Life with the "Shoe Trick."

Your reciprocating saw has a metal nose piece called the "shoe." Did you know it’s often adjustable?

When you cut, you usually use the teeth closest to the saw. Those teeth wear out, but the teeth at the tip are brand new! Adjust the shoe by sliding it out. This exposes the fresh, unused teeth to your workpiece. It’s like getting a second blade for free!

2. The Plunge Cut

Need to cut a hole in the middle of a drywall sheet or plywood, but don't have a drill for a pilot hole? Use the plunge cut.

Rest the shoe of the saw on the material at an angle, with the blade lifted above the surface. Start the saw at full speed. Pivot the saw downward, using the shoe as a fulcrum, and slowly lower the moving blade into the material. Hold tight! Once it breaks through, you can level out and cut normally.

3. Flush Cutting

Need to cut a PVC pipe sticking out of the floor, or a bolt flush with the wall?

Take your blade out and flip it upside down (teeth facing up). Most saws allow this. Now you can get the blade completely flat against the floor without the handle of the saw getting in the way. The flexibility of Bi-Metal blades, like the Johnson Tools Bi-Metal series, is perfect for bending flat against a surface for these flush cuts.

Safety First: Don't Learn the Hard Way

These tools are powerful. Here is how to keep your fingers attached.

Beware of Kickback. This happens when the tip of the blade hits something solid or the blade binds. The saw will violently jerk back at you. Always keep the shoe pressed firmly against the material. If there is a gap between the shoe and the wood, the saw will vibrate uncontrollably.

Let it Cool. After cutting metal, that blade is hot enough to burn skin instantly. Do not touch the blade immediately after a cut.

Disconnect Power. It sounds basic, but always unplug the cord or remove the battery before changing a blade. It only takes one accidental bump of the trigger to cause a serious injury.

Why Johnson Tools?

We’ve mentioned them a few times, and for good reason. Johnson Tools has been manufacturing top-tier diamond and cutting tools for over 20 years. They aren't just rebranding generic stuff; they operate their own factory in Nanjing, China.

They offer a massive variety, from 32-piece contractor sets (which are a steal for bulk buying) to specialized Diamond Jig Saw Blades for ceramic work.

Their blades are built with Universal Shanks, so you don't need to worry about compatibility. Whether you are running a fancy cordless Milwaukee or an old-school corded DeWalt, these blades fit.

Need to stock up for your crew? You can reach out to them directly.

Check out their full catalog here: (https://www.johnsontoolscn.com/)

Or get in touch for bulk orders: Contact Us

Summary Checklist: Picking Your Winner

Let’s wrap this up with a quick cheat sheet. Before you make your next cut, ask yourself:

• Cutting Wood with Nails? Go Bi-Metal or Carbide, roughly 6-10 TPI.
• Cutting Thick Metal? Go Bi-Metal, 14-18 TPI, and use oil!
• Cutting Cast Iron? Stop! Go get a Carbide-Tipped blade (8 TPI).
• Cutting Drywall/Mixed? Grab a Universal Bi-Metal blade.
• Cutting Tile/Stone? You need a Diamond Grit blade.

Invest in quality blades like those from Johnson Tools, and you’ll spend less time changing dull blades and more time finishing the job. Work smarter, not harder!

FAQ: Questions You Were Too Afraid to Ask

We get it, sometimes you just want a quick answer without reading a textbook. Here are the most common questions we hear on the job site.

Can I sharpen my old reciprocating saw blades?

Honestly? It’s usually not worth the hassle. Unlike a chainsaw chain, these teeth are tiny and complex. By the time you grind them down, you’ve often lost the hardened edge. It’s better to treat them as consumables. Just grab a fresh pack from Johnson Tools and save yourself the frustration.    

Why do my blades keep bending?

This is super annoying! It usually happens because the blade is too long for the cut. If the tip of the blade hits the material (or the wall behind it) while it's moving, bam—bent blade. Use a blade that is just a couple of inches longer than your cut to keep it stiff and stable.    

My blade gets dull after one cut on metal. What gives?

You are probably going too fast. Metal gets hot—really hot. If you see the blade smoking or turning blue, you've ruined the temper of the steel. Slow your speed down and use some cutting oil. It keeps the blade cool and the teeth sharp.    

Will these blades fit my brand of saw?

Almost certainly. Modern reciprocating saws (Sawzalls) use a Universal Shank system. Whether you rock a yellow, red, or teal saw, the blades from (https://www.johnsontoolscn.com/) will fit perfectly. Just slide it in and lock it.