How to Select the Best Reciprocating Saw Blades

Preview: Choosing the best reciprocating saw blades can feel overwhelming with so many options on the market. Blades come in different materials, lengths, and tooth designs – which all affect how well they cut. Prove: I’ve been in those shoes, wondering why my saw was struggling, only to realize I had the wrong blade for the job. Benefit: The good news is, once you know the basics, selecting the perfect blade is easy. In this guide, we’ll break down blade types and tips so you can cut wood, metal, or even concrete faster and cleaner – without ruining your blade or your project.

Blade Material Matters

One of the first things to consider is the blade material. The material determines the blade’s durability, flexibility, and what it can cut. Blades generally come in a few different materials, each with pros and cons:

High Carbon Steel (HCS)

High carbon steel (HCS) blades are the most common and affordable. They’re the softest and most flexible type, meaning they can bend without snapping. This makes HCS blades great for light-duty work and cutting softer materials. For example, if you’re trimming wooden dowels, slicing through plastic pipes, or pruning small branches, an HCS blade works fine. The downside is they dull quickly on harder materials. Hit a nail or try cutting hardwood with an HCS blade, and it’ll lose its edge almost immediately. In short, use HCS for basic wood-cutting and plastic, but don’t expect it to last long against metal or dense hardwood.

High-Speed Steel (HSS)

Moving up in durability, high-speed steel (HSS) blades are hardened through a special tempering process. They stay sharp up to 5× longer than HCS blades in similar conditions. HSS blades can tackle tougher jobs like cutting hardwoods, aluminum, and other non-ferrous metals without wearing out as fast. The trade-off? They’re less flexible. An HSS blade is more brittle, so if you twist or bend it too much, it can snap. These blades are a good mid-range choice for occasional metal cutting or for wood when you need a bit more longevity than HCS provides. For example, if you’re a DIYer cutting some aluminum tubing or thicker hardwood planks, an HSS blade will hold up better than basic carbon steel.

Bi-Metal Blades

Bi-metal blades are a hybrid that give you the best of both worlds. They have a springy HCS body for flexibility and hardened HSS teeth for cutting power and heat resistance. This combo makes bi-metal blades incredibly popular. In fact, a good bi-metal blade can last 10× longer than a plain HCS blade under the same use. While they cost a bit more than single-material blades, they’re worth it for their versatility and toughness. Professionals love bi-metal blades for everything from demolition (like cutting through nail-embedded wood) to auto repair (slicing through sheet metal or exhaust pipes). DIYers benefit too – if you want a blade that can handle weekend projects and not wear out after one job, bi-metal is a smart choice. Some high-end bi-metal blades even use cobalt alloy (e.g. M42 steel teeth with cobalt) to further increase durability. Comparison-wise, a bi-metal vs. carbide-tipped blade comes down to longevity: bi-metal is tough and long-lasting, but carbide takes it to another level (more on that next).

[Insert comparison chart: Bi-metal vs Carbide-Tipped blade durability]

Carbide-Tipped Blades

For heavy-duty cutting and maximum lifespan, carbide-tipped reciprocating saw blades are king. These blades are essentially bi-metal blades with tiny carbide teeth tips (carbide is an extremely hard material, often tungsten or titanium carbide). Those carbide-tipped teeth can chew through material that would destroy other blades. Expect a carbide blade to last 20× longer than standard bi-metal on challenging cuts. When you need to cut something like cast iron pipe, high-strength steel (e.g. automotive grade bolts or truck frame), or stainless steel, a carbide-tipped blade makes it doable. They’re also great for demolition work where you might hit all sorts of embedded metal. Carbide blades cost more, but they’re often the best reciprocating saw blades for pros who need reliability and for DIYers tackling a big remodel (say, cutting out an old steel bathtub or metal railing). If you’ve ever tried cutting hardened steel with a regular blade, you know it’s nearly impossible – carbide changes that. The only caution is that carbide blades are a bit more rigid due to those hard teeth, but they’ll handle almost anything you throw at them.

Carbide Grit Blades (Toothless Blades)

Not all blades have teeth. Carbide grit blades use an abrasive strip coated in gritty carbide particles instead of saw teeth. These are specialty blades for materials that teeth can’t easily cut, such as ceramics or masonry. If you need to cut a hole in a brick wall, trim a piece of ceramic tile, or even cut through a hardened cast iron pipe, a carbide grit blade does the job. They don’t give a fast, smooth cut like a toothed blade in wood, but they can grind through very tough or brittle materials without cracking them. For example, plumbers often use carbide grit blades to cut old cast-iron drain pipes during renovations. These blades wear down with time, but their abrasive action is perfect for materials where even carbide teeth would dull or snag. Keep in mind, carbide grit blades won’t work well for wood or metal sheets – they’re really meant for stone, concrete, tile, and the like.

Diamond Blades

Diamond-coated reciprocating saw blades take abrasives a step further. These are typically the most expensive blades you can buy, but they enable your saw to cut through ultra-tough stuff. A diamond blade has a coating of industrial diamonds (yes, real or synthetic diamonds) along the cutting edge. They are designed for concrete, stone, and masonry cutting. Need to cut a concrete block or slice through a piece of granite or marble? A diamond blade will do it. They also work on materials like fiber cement and fiberglass, where other blades struggle. Because diamond blades can grind through concrete and brick, they’re a go-to for construction crews and serious DIY projects like cutting openings in masonry walls. They last a long time when used properly (keeping them cool and not forcing them too hard), but they are pricey. Unless you have a specific masonry job, you likely won’t need a diamond blade – but it’s good to know they exist for those special projects.

Blade Length

Reciprocating saw blades come in various lengths, usually from about 3 inches up to 12 inches long. Common lengths you’ll see are 4”, 6”, 8”, 9”, and 12”. So, how to choose the length? It depends on the job:

• Short blades (4–6 inches): Shorter blades are stiffer and more maneuverable. This rigidity helps you get straighter, more controlled cuts. If you’re doing a plunge cut (starting a cut in the middle of material) or cutting something like a small copper pipe or thin metal conduit, a short blade is ideal. It won’t wobble as much, making it easier to start the cut precisely. Short blades also excel at cuts in tight spaces where a long blade simply wouldn’t fit.

• Long blades (9–12 inches): Longer blades are more flexible and can absorb heat better over long cuts. You want a longer blade for jobs like demolition, pruning, or cutting large diameter material. For instance, trimming a thick tree branch or cutting through a wall cavity requires reach – a 9” or 12” blade lets you cut deeper. The flexibility of a long blade also enables you to bend it for flush cuts. Imagine cutting off a pipe or nail flush with a floor or wall – a long blade can flex so you don’t scrape up the surface around it. However, the extra length can cause wobble if the blade is much longer than the material thickness. An excessively long blade may vibrate or whip around, especially if you’re cutting something thin, which can be hard to control.

Tip: Choose a blade a bit longer than the material thickness you’re cutting. Ideally, have 2–3 inches of blade beyond the material. This ensures the blade travels in and out of the cut smoothly without the saw’s chuck hitting the workpiece. It also reduces binding. But avoid a blade that’s way too long – the unsupported end can vibrate violently, making the cut less efficient and possibly bending the blade.

Blade Width and Shape

Recip saw blades also vary in width (height from teeth to back). A blade’s width affects its stability.

• Wider blades (3/4″ to 1″): These are stiffer and resist bending. A wide blade will track straighter in heavy cuts and won’t flex as much if you push it hard. That makes wide blades perfect for heavy-duty uses like demolition (e.g. chopping through nail-embedded framing lumber) or rescue work (firefighters often use wide blades to cut through cars). The added body strength keeps the blade from buckling when it’s forced through tough materials. If you need to make a tough, straight cut in wood or metal, a wide blade is your friend.

• Narrow blades (1/2″ or less): Thinner-width blades are more flexible and nimble. They’re good for general purpose use and for making curved or intricate cuts (sometimes called scroll cuts). For example, if you wanted to cut a curved pattern in a piece of plywood or trim a thin PVC pipe with precision, a narrower blade gives you that control. The trade-off is that a very narrow blade can wobble or drift in heavy cuts, so you’d only use those for light materials or when you specifically need to maneuver the blade around.

Blade shape ties into this as well. Some blades have a tapered (sloped) tip, which helps with plunge cuts and getting into tight spaces. Others have a more straight/flat profile which can help in straight cuts along an edge. Many reciprocating saw blades actually have a semi-tapered shape – a narrow tip for starting cuts, and a wider body for stability. For most users, the standard shape blades work for both plunge and edge cuts. But if you know you’ll be doing a lot of plunge cutting (say, cut-outs in drywall or flooring), look for blades with a pointed nose or sloped shape. They’ll pierce in more easily without rattling your arms as much.

Blade Thickness

The thickness of a blade (the gauge of the metal) influences how much it can flex and how durable it is under stress. Standard reciprocating blades usually come in a few thickness categories:

• Thin (around 0.035″): These are often labeled standard duty blades. A thin blade cuts faster because there’s less material plowing through the cut. They also cost a bit less. Most general-purpose blades for light work fall in this range. However, thinner blades are easier to bend or snap if you push them too hard. Use thin blades for quick cuts in wood or plastic where precision isn’t critical and the material isn’t super thick.

• Medium (around 0.042″ – 0.050″): These can be considered medium to heavy-duty blades. They have more rigidity and can handle tougher jobs without flexing too much. If you’re doing remodeling work – cutting through nailed wood, light metal, or pipes – a medium thickness blade offers a good balance of strength and speed. Many demolition blades (for tearing out walls, cutting roof rafters, etc.) are in this thickness range.

• Thick (0.062″ and above): These are ultra heavy-duty blades. At about 1/16 inch thick, they are very stiff. These blades can handle the highest stress jobs like cutting cast iron, structural steel, or performing rescue cuts on vehicles. If you’re in a situation where blade bending is dangerous or problematic, go thick. Keep in mind thick blades have a wider kerf (they remove more material) and require a powerful saw to push them. They’re not meant for finesse – they’re all about strength. Also, a very thick blade in a tight cut can cause more vibration if your saw isn’t up to the task.

Tip: For blades 6″ or longer, if you notice too much flex, consider using a thicker blade. Longer blades naturally bend more; switching to a heavier gauge can keep it straighter. On the flip side, if you need flexibility (for example, cutting flush to a surface or making a curve), a thinner blade will serve you better.

Teeth-Per-Inch (TPI) and Tooth Design

Perhaps the most important factor for performance is the blade’s teeth-per-inch (TPI). This essentially tells you what material the blade is best suited for. In general:

• Low TPI (3–8 teeth per inch): Fewer, larger teeth mean a faster, rougher cut. These blades rip through material quickly but leave a rough edge. They are best for wood, pruning, and demolition tasks. For example, a pruning blade for a reciprocating saw might be 3–5 TPI with big, aggressive teeth that tear through branches quickly. A typical wood-demolition blade might be ~8 TPI so it can cut through framing lumber (even if nails are in it) without clogging up. If you need to cut branches, 2x4s, or make quick work of a stud wall, low TPI blades are the way to go.

• High TPI (12–24 teeth per inch): More teeth give a slower but smoother cut. High TPI blades are used for metal and thin materials. When cutting metal, you want at least a few teeth in contact with the metal at all times, which fine teeth provide. For instance, to cut a steel pipe or conduit, a 14–18 TPI blade will slice through without snagging, and it will leave a cleaner edge on the metal. Blades in the 18–24 TPI range are typically for thin metal (like sheet metal, tin, or EMT conduit) where fine teeth prevent the material from tearing or catching. They also work for cutting PVC or fiberglass with minimal chipping. The cut is slower, but much cleaner and more controlled.

• Medium TPI (around 10 TPI): These fall in the middle and are often marketed as general-purpose blades. They can handle a bit of wood and a bit of metal – for example, cutting through wood that has some nails in it. If you’re not sure what you’ll encounter, a 10 TPI blade can be a safe bet. It won’t cut as fast in wood as a 6 TPI, and it won’t be as smooth in metal as a 18 TPI, but it tries to balance both.

No matter the TPI, tooth pattern can also vary. Some blades have all teeth the same size and spacing; others are variable TPI blades (also called combination blades). For instance, a 10/14 TPI variable blade has sections of 10 TPI teeth and 14 TPI teeth alternating. This design lets it handle mixed materials (the coarse section chews wood, the fine section tackles metal). If you’re doing demolition or renovating an old house, variable TPI blades are great because you might go from cutting a wood stud to cutting a metal pipe with one blade.

Also pay attention to tooth shape: some are sharpened like little knives (good for wood), others are more hooked or angled for digging into material. Most blade packaging will indicate what materials it’s for – wood, metal, multi-material, etc., which correlates with the TPI.

Tip: Always try to have at least 3 teeth in contact with the material while cutting. If the teeth are too large (low TPI) for a thin piece of material, the saw will snag and jump. Conversely, if you use a very high TPI blade on thick wood, it will be painfully slow. Matching TPI to your work speeds things up and keeps the cut under control.

[Insert infographic: Blade TPI selection for wood, metal, plastic]

Choosing the Right Blade for Your Project

By now, we’ve covered blade construction and design. But how do you pick the right one for your task? Let’s look at a few common scenarios and the best blade types for each. (Consider this your quick cheat-sheet when standing in the blade aisle!)

• Cutting Wood (Lumber & Pruning): For framing lumber, plywood, and general wood cuts, go with a low TPI wood-cutting blade (around 6–10 TPI). It will cut quickly. If the wood has nails (like pulling apart pallets or demolition), use a bi-metal demolition blade (~8 TPI) so it doesn’t dull on the nails. For pruning trees or branches, choose a pruning-specific blade (often 3–5 TPI with big teeth and sometimes a hooked tip) – it will saw through green wood like butter. High carbon steel is okay for very soft wood and one-off cuts, but bi-metal blades last much longer even in wood, especially if there’s a chance of hitting nails or dirt.

• Cutting Metal: The type of metal and its thickness determine your blade. For thin sheet metal or metal roofing, use a 18–24 TPI blade so it doesn’t snag (the cut will be slow but clean). For thicker metal like pipes, rods, or angle iron, a 14 TPI bi-metal blade works well. If you need to cut cast iron, rebar, or high-strength steel (like automotive spring steel or a steel pipe inside a wall), step up to a carbide-tipped metal-cutting blade. It might be around 8–14 TPI but with carbide teeth that can handle the hardness. Always remember: metal = higher TPI (and usually bi-metal or carbide for durability). Using a wood blade on metal will just strip the teeth off in seconds.

• Mixed Materials / Demolition: When you’re cutting through whatever is in front of you (old walls, door frames, combos of wood, nails, and maybe some plastic or piping), a variable TPI blade is your friend. Something labeled “demolition blade” or “general purpose” that’s around 8/12 TPI or 10/14 TPI is designed for this. Bi-metal is the standard here so it can flex and not break as you encounter surprises. These blades can chew through a stud and the hidden nail inside it in one go. If you’re doing a bathroom remodel and need to cut through wood, nails, and maybe a bit of drywall or fiberglass tub, grab a demolition blade.

• Masonry, Tile & Concrete: As mentioned earlier, for any concrete, brick, ceramic tile, or stone, you’ll need an abrasive blade. Use a carbide grit blade for things like cutting a hole in ceramic tile or trimming a brick (carbide grit blades are great for materials like cement board and fiberglass, too). For tougher jobs like cutting concrete or stone, a diamond blade is best. These grinding blades don’t have a TPI rating since they have no teeth. Keep the saw speed moderate and let the abrasive do the work. It won’t cut as quickly as a toothed blade through wood, but it will get through the hard stuff without destroying your saw. Pro tip: if you’re doing a long cut in something like concrete, periodically let the blade cool or use water to avoid overheating a diamond blade.

• Plastics & PVC: Cutting plastic pipes (PVC, ABS) or materials like acrylic sheets can melt or crack if you use the wrong blade. A medium TPI blade (10–14 TPI) usually works best for plastic. For example, cutting a PVC plumbing pipe with an 18 TPI metal blade will be slow (though it will be clean). A 6 TPI wood blade will cut fast but might chip or crack the plastic and cause it to shatter near the end of the cut. So, a middle-ground blade gives you a smooth cut without melting the plastic. Many general-purpose blades in the 10–12 TPI range list PVC as one of the materials they can cut. If you only have a coarse wood blade, you can still cut plastic in a pinch, but go very slowly to avoid cracking.

Remember that reciprocating saw blades are generally universal fit, so you don’t have to match the blade brand to your saw brand. Whether you have a DeWalt, Makita, or the best Sawzall out there (FYI, “Sawzall” is just Milwaukee’s brand name for their reciprocating saw – it’s become a common nickname for all recips), any standard reciprocating blade will usually fit. Just make sure you insert it fully and tighten the chuck. And always wear eye protection – blades can break if misused, and materials can send chips flying.

Final Thoughts

Selecting the right blade might seem like a lot to digest, but it boils down to matching the blade to the material. Now that you know the key factors – material type, length, width, thickness, and TPI – you’re equipped to make a smart choice. The result? Faster cuts, safer work, and less frustration from using the wrong blade. Even the most powerful reciprocating saw won’t perform well with a poor blade choice. Conversely, a modest saw fitted with the optimal blade can cut like a champ.

If you’re still unsure or want to see the options available, feel free to visit the Johnson Tools homepage to browse a curated selection of quality reciprocating saw blades and accessories. We carry everything from economical carbon steel blades for light jobs to rugged carbide-tipped blades for heavy-duty use. And if you have any questions or need personalized advice on which blade is best for your specific project, don’t hesitate to contact us. We’re here to help you cut smoothly and get your DIY or professional job done right. Happy cutting!